Category: travel

  • An Extra Day in Eastern Washington

    An Extra Day in Eastern Washington

    Wallula Gap as seen from near Twin Sisters
    Wallula Gap as seen from near Twin Sisters

    Due to bad weather on my intended route back to Utah I recently found myself staying an extra day at home in eastern Washington. I used the extra time to check out three nearby natural attractions: the McNary National Wildlife Refuge, the Twin Sisters / Wallula Gap, and the Skyline Trail on Badger Mountain. It was great to get out in nature and reconnect with my homeland a bit. This post is basically a photo dump plus a few thoughts on the experience.

    The Twin Sisters rock formation in Walla Walla County, overlooking the Columbia River.
    The Twin Sisters rock formation in Walla Walla County, overlooking the Columbia River.

    Though to most people it likely seems drab and austere, to my eyes eastern Washington is incredibly beautiful. This is the land of my nativity and I think I’ll always be in love with it. There’s a sort of poetry, a sort of romance to the place. Something about the hue of the sunsets, the cadence of the wind, and the seemingly endless sky, perhaps.

    Sun setting in Badger Canyon, as seen from Badger Mountain
    Sun setting in Badger Canyon, as seen from Badger Mountain. Not a great photographic composition, but a nice simulation of what it’s like to have the sun in your eyes from that low angle!

    McNary NWR was surely the least photogenic of the places I visited, mostly due to my not being equipped with a telephoto lens to properly photograph the far-off waterfoul. This picture is the best candidate for “drab” in the bunch, though I think even it has its charm with the decaying road and the twisted slough in the background:

    Part of the Burbank Slough at McNary National Wildlife Refuge
    Part of the Burbank Slough at McNary National Wildlife Refuge

    At McNary there is a bird blind, and inside the blind there were three birders. It was fun just to listen to them talk since they knew their subject well. One of them passed me her binoculars, and I simply sat and watched the mallards and some sort of geese bobbing, diving, taking off, landing on the water, while the wind whipped against cattails and buffeted the window panes.

    Looking up the slopes of Badger Mountain
    Looking up the slopes of Badger Mountain

    At Badger Mountain I ran half of the time as daylight was short. I went up the loop trail on the south side which gave me views of the sunset over Badger Canyon below. After summiting I descended the north face and the winds were icy and fierce, making it hard to breathe and turning my face numb. It felt like a fight for survival (though I’m sure in reality it was not.) By the time I arrived back at my truck parked down below I was simultaneously half-frozen and drenched in sweat, yet I felt deeply satisfied at coming out victorious in my battle with the elements.

    If you’d like to support the further conservation and trail development efforts for Badger Mountain and its neighbors, go ahead and donate to Friends of Badger.

  • The Sign at 37 Rue de la Bûcherie

    Shakespeare and Co Antiquarian Books. (Click for larger image.)

    Paris Wall Newspaper
    January 1st 2004

    Some people call me
    the Don Quixote
    of the Latin Quarter
    because my head
    is so far up in the
    clouds that I can
    imagine all of us are
    angels in paradise,
    and instead of
    being a bonafide
    bookseller I am more
    like a frustrated

    novelist store has
    rooms like chapters
    in a novel and the
    fact is Tolstoi and
    Doestoyevski are
    more real to me than
    my next door neighb-
    ors and even stranger
    is the fact that even
    before I was born
    Dostoyevski wrote
    the story of my life in
    a book called ‘The
    Idiot’ and ever since
    reading it I have been
    search for the

    heroine, a girl
    called Nastasia
    Filipovna. One
    hundred years
    ago my bookstore
    was a wine shop
    hidden from the
    Seine by an annex
    of the Hotel Dieu
    hospital which has
    since been demolis-
    -hed & replaced by
    a garden. And

    further back in
    the year 1600
    our whole building
    was a monastery
    called La Maison
    du Mustier. In
    medieval times
    each monastery
    had a frere lampier
    whose duty was to
    light the lamps at
    night. I have been
    doing this for fifty
    years now it is
    my daughter’s
    turn.
    GW

  • Upon A Christmas Night

    White flakes of snow spun and swirled outside, while the dated heater raged like a jet engine within the apartment. The dishes from the potluck were washed and put away, and the echoes of friends and merriment had faded like the burning sweetness of a glass of eggnog. And he was alone.

    The thought of being by himself on Christmas day had never really bothered him much. No, it wasn’t the lack of gifts and bustle, or of Bing Crosby and Bedford Falls, that troubled the man. It was something else, something as hard to pin down as why his ramen and pea soup hadn’t tasted right at dinner—adjusting for the fact that, after all, it was made from ramen and frozen peas.

    He could have spent the day with his friend’s family. It would have been fun. But somehow the comforts of a quiet apartment and a cozy, worn old sofa held him in their thrall. He’d expected as much, ever since waking up at almost noon and eating his first meal at two or three o’clock. And it was alright, he thought, because, unlike most people, he thrived on aloneness.

    His self-imposed hermitude contrasted strangely with Monday’s enthusiasm for home, family, and friends. The canceled flight hardly dimmed his spirits. After all, it was Christmas! He’d find a way home. But Tuesday at the bus station, with its seemingly-pointless delays and uncomfortably different clientèle, ground down his patience, and, gradually, the process of getting to Washington made him wish more and more that he could just stay in Utah to ride out the holidays in travel-free peace. Leaving behind an endless supply of free pizza (shocking, really), he fled the bus station and returned to Provo.

    Yes, there had been a dinner that night, and friends to be with; and yes, the party on Wednesday (Christmas Eve) warmed his heart and filled his stomach; but the pendulum had already swung the other way, and on Christmas he found himself alone.

    Alone. On Christmas day. He never thought he’d care.

    The snow had all but stopped now, drifting down to earth like a disappointment, and the heater finally fell silent, too. Watching the flakes fall in front of a cloudy, glowing night sky, he contemplated one more attempt to fly home tomorrow. He expected that when (or if) he finally got there, he’d snap out of it, want to be a person again. But he didn’t want to want to.

    Oh, and, by the way, the celery seeds ruined the soup.

    Note: This is mostly autobiographical. However, on Christmas night I did get to chat with some friends online and go over to Diane’s for a little while. The outcome of return attempt #3 is, of course, still pending, but I think I’ll probably feel a little more like being elsewhere once I’ve actually succeeded in getting there.